Thanks very much to all respondents for the tips and advice. For the
benefit
of the group, I'm enclosing copies of the very helpful email replies I
received to date. I've removed senders' full names and email addresses
as a
privacy precaution.
John Gunther
Message 1:
The Galapagos, at least any part of it you are allowed to see, is
intrinsically an artifically maintained tourist environment. Tourism
there is
extremely strictly regulated. You do exactly what and when you are told.
One
more thing: you can't avoid the tourist problem by going with
Ecuadorians!
Mainland Ecuadorians in the Galapagos are just as touristy as Americans
in
Yosemite. Of course in the mainland this does not apply, in just they
way you
must have experienced elsewhere. (There is only one town in the
Galapagos,
and my experience there is atypical because it was Christmas day and
only the
tortoise farm was open.)
I went there two years ago. I used a US travel company called
Wilderness
Travel. They are an "adventure travel" company that runs two yachts, the
85
foot Samba and the 105 foot Andando. Their tours are 7 to 14 days. I was
on
the Samba for a week. We had three children (10, 11, and 14) on this
trip, and
they were absolutely ecstatic. However, they were ardent outdoors types
to
begin with, and great snorkelers.
These boats take about 10 passengers. I extremely highly recommend
these
people. Not Cheap. They will do their best to avoid the tourist
syndrome. But
their trips are really truly all-inclusive. These people also offer
trips to
other areas of Ecuador, but most of these you can probably book on your
own
cheaper. I'm going on their trip called "Headwaters of the Amazon" next
summer.
There are other "adventure travel" operations that likely will do as
well,
including Mountain Travel-Sobek. Obviously there are other operators as
well.
Some are more upscale than others.
Message 2:
Quote:>Anybody have any suggestions re the various yachts/ships sailing the
Galapagos. Is 7 days about right for non-divers?
My wife and I were in the Galapagos Islands several years ago. Our tour
included the Galapagos and some of the rainforest. We travelled with
Voyagers
Interna. We prepared a diary of our trip. I will send it to you if you
are
interested.
Quote:>I would appreciate receiving your diary. How long were you in the
islands?
Was it the right amount of time? Thanks for your help.
The boat we were on carried 16 passangers and 8 crew. We were out about
7
days. It seemed to be about the right amount of time. But of course we
do not
know what we missed. We did not see "all" of the islands. Since each
island
is unique, I am sure there were other things to see.
Here comes the diary:
GALAPAGOS/LA SALVA JOURNAL
2-5-94 Saturday
Left the house at 7:01 p.m., had to return at 7:15 for Carol's
malaria
medicine. Stayed overnight at the Red Roof Inn near the airport.
2-6-94 Sunday
6:15 a.m. had breakfast at the airport. Dean dropped Carol off at
the
airport so she could leave her winter jacket in the car. Airport was
not
crowded at all at that time of the morning, so Dean was able to help
Carol
carry the luggage to the American check-in counter.
10:30 a.m. arrived Miami. Carried our luggage to the SAETA counter
for
check-in (was just a matter of going up the elevator and over to the
right).
Then, we had 5 hours to kill until our flight left at 4:00. We found a
corner
of the airport, plopped down and began to read. About 1:00 4 more
people in
our Voyager's group came by and we introduced ourselves. We kept
watching for
the other people in our group, but did not see them until we were
boarding our
flight for Quito. One member of their group - Nancy - had missed her
flight out of Boston and had just arrived in Miami at 3:10. They were
trying
to make sure her luggage was there.
The SAETA flight was something else. The entire plane was called
their
"premier" class: extra leg room and first class service. As soon as we
were
seated on the plane, we were served orange juice before we left, and
then
drinks and a small pastry. For dinner, they placed a cloth on our tray
complete with carnation. First course was salad and rolls; second
course was
choice of chicken, fish, or beef; third course was choice of ice cream
or
cheese cake. Wine and drinks were complimentary.
During the flight, there were monitors on board which showed the
location
of the plane on a map and a subsequent screen showing statistics of
altitude,
flying time, arrival time, outside temperature. During dinner, everyone
watched the complimentary movie "In the Line of Fire".
In Quito, the people from Nuevo Mundo were responsible for picking
us up
and taking us to our Hotel Sabastian. At the hotel, we found their
version of
"Mineral Water" in our bathroom (bubbly, carbonized water that is
bottled).
We used this water for brushing our teeth.
2-7-94 Monday
Had a great "American" breakfast at the hotel. Buffet included
breads,
fresh squeezed juices, fresh pineapple and red papaya, meats, and
waffles.
Hotel Sabastian is brand new. We left 2 suitcases at the hotel (which
contained our clothes and equipment for La Salva).
11:00 we left for Guayaquil and then on to the Galapagos which are
located 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. The flying time from Quito
was a
total of 2 1/2 hours, including the stop in Guayaquil.
We were taken out to our boat - the Dorado. We met the other
passengers
on board and were assigned our cabin (through a drawing) -"Leon Marino"
- Sea
Lion, located on the top deck behind the bridge. We took a ride out to
the
"Sleeping Lion" (rock formation) and saw ***ies, Masked ***ies, male
Frigates with their pouches extended -kind of like seeing Eagles for the
first
time. We rode around the rocks, but the birds were really at quite a
distance
for viewing.
We went back to the harbor at San Christibol for the night. Sea
Lions
were everywhere. They were lounging in and on boats we passed enroute
to our
ship. Also, saw pelicans everywhere. Frigates are a beautiful bird in
flight
- they steal food from other birds.
Lunch was fish - we ate Granola bars. Supper was better
-spaghetti,
chicken soup and coconut ice cream. Drinks were extra while on board
the
oat. The choices were the bottled, bubbly mineral water or coke
(without ice
cubes). Amazing how quickly you get used to drinking warm coke or warm
water.
The Group of 16 passengers seem very congenial. Most seem to be
interested in snorkeling. Marcia (veterinarian) and Glen (farmer) from
Idaho. David (optometrist) and Sally from Michigan. Paul (retired
professor)
and Martha from Maine, Nancy from Maine, Patrick (clinical surgeon) and
Morag
(physician)
from New Zealand, Theresa and Maria from Germany, Terry (RN) from New
Jersey,
*** and Diane from Ohio.
On the way back to the harbor, saw two sea turtles (looked like
they were
on top of each other). Also, was raining - this is the rainy season.
Albatrosses are gone - they are in the islands June thru Dec.
Unpacked our suitcases which entailed throwing things in a drawer
(one
for each of us) and*** up a few items. We have our own toilet and
shower. No need for plug adaptors. Already re-charging one of the
batteries
for the camcorder.
Had our first briefing on what to expect tomorrow. We'll leave at
2:00
a.m. for the island of Espanola so we are there for breakfast. We'll do
one
landing in the a.m. and Gardner Bay after lunch. Our guide, Diego,
explained
the landing procedures and what we would need to take with us on each
excursion.
2-8-94 Tuesday Espanola
7:00 a.m. breakfast. Carol slept through the alarm.
7:45 a.m. wet landing - walked ashore in shallow water. Then we
dried our
feet and put on our hiking boots. Walked on a clearly marked path and
saw
Blue Footed ***ies, Masked Bobbies, red marine iguanas, and sea lions.
Had
to be careful where you walked so as not to step on the animals/birds.
There
were many blue footed and masked ***y babies. They'd be nesting right
beside
our path and
completely ignored us as we walked by and/or took their pictures. Tiny
lava
lizards. Walked right up to the
birds/animals and they didn't move - not even a flinch. Sally Lightfoot
crabs
all over the place. Had to be careful to stay on the marked path.
Watched a
Blow Hole. Myriads of birds all over the place. Also saw yellow
warbler,
ground finch, immature night herron, oyster catcher, swallow-tailed
gull. Sea
lions were playing in the water. Red billed tropic bird. Red marine
iguanas
didn't move much.
Rained during breakfast, lunch and dinner - stopped in between when
we
were on our walks.
Afternoon we snorkeled at Gardner Bay. Saw a Sting Rey, large
parrotfish
(gorgeous blue color), cornetfish, angelfish - no sharks. White-tipped
sharks
are common here, but we didn't see any.
Then, we watched baby sea lions on shore. They would come right up
to
us. Saw a mama sea lion and 3 babies body surfing in the waves.
Everyone turned in early - another busy day tomorrow. It's 9:15 and
we
are both ready to turn in.
2-9-94 Wednesday Floreana
In the morning we went ashore at Punta Comorant. Saw ghost crabs
disappearing into the sand.
At Flamingo Lagoon, we saw beautiful flamingos feeding in the
brackish
waters. There were over 100 of them. At the White Beach (on the other
side
of the island), we saw sea turtles mating, and tracks in the sand from
where
sea turtles had come ashore to lay their eggs and then returned to sea.
Then, (all in the a.m.) we went snorkeling at Devil's Crown.
Devil's
Crown is the top of an extinct volcano that is mostly underwater. The
water
was so clear. We saw beautiful blue and red star fish. A sea lion was
also
swimming with us. Lots of colorful fish.
After a quick shower, we headed out to an island nearby where male
frigates could be
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